I love food. I love to eat. My best friend growing up used to joke that I live to eat, I don’t eat to live. This was true when I squirted her family’s Hershey syrup straight into my mouth at 16, and it’s true today. The problem is that I don’t love to cook. I do cook and have cooked for years because I love to eat and because I have a family to feed, but it’s rare that I get excited about being in the kitchen to make savory foods. Baking is different, I enjoy baking: cakes, muffins, pies, bread, rolls, scones, bars. All of that. I like all of that.
When I think about cooking, and what my favorite things to cook are, I realize the pleasure I enjoy is in the end product — the food I get to eat — rather than the process itself. Like this falafel, which I don’t love to cook, but I do love to eat. Or I love a dish because the flavor to effort ratio is super high (roasted broccoli with salt), or it is easy to clean up after. Mostly I’m a lazy cook. But despite being a lazy cook, I like real, whole, quality food, so I’ll suffer to cook in order to eat real food instead of processed or out of a box.
For a meal with a lot of ingredients, like a pineapple cashew quinoa stir-fry I used to make, I like doing the prep or I like cooking the dish, but I don’t like doing both. I think I actually prefer setting the mise en place and then my husband can come through and cook the actual dish. I like chopping and measuring and wiping the board, and putting each ingredient in its little glass bowl that he can then toss into the stir-fry in its time. How nice it is to come in to cook and have everything clean, tidy, and ready! But I’d rather do the readying and tidying than the stir-frying.
There is one process in cooking that I do really love, though. I love to deglaze a pan. It’s so satisfying! Especially when I get to do it in our beautiful, smooth, enameled cast iron braiser. I make a chicken and orzo dish lately, where I pan sear chicken breasts with tarragon, salt, and pepper. When the chicken’s done and I pull it off the pan, I drizzle the braiser again with olive oil to sauté shallots and garlic. I’ve got my cooking sherry and vegetable stock (or pasta water from the orzo) next to the pan, and as soon as the shallots are soft and ready, I splash the sherry and broth in, and the braiser hisses and steams like its insides are going to burst, and it’s a chaotic, fast, sizzling witch’s cauldron where visions might appear in the froth.
And then 5 seconds later, it’s a beautiful, calm, caramelized sauce. No sizzles. No spattering. No steam. Instead of being encrusted with bits of chicken that would take days to soak off, the bottom of the braiser is smooth and pristine. I run the wooden spatula back and forth over the bottom of the pan and it’s like velvet; no stuck-on lumps. I simmer off some of the liquid, toss in the cooked orzo and some fresh tarragon, sprinkle with fresh grated parmesan, and serve with chicken.
The meal is fine to eat, it’s nothing spectacular, but I do love the buildup to the deglazing of our beautiful braiser. It’s exciting, and like magic how the pan goes from crusty to smooth in an instant.





